...this sturdy, stainless-steel workhorse of a pan by would be in the upper reaches of my wish list. The generous 4-quart capacity, wide, flat base and high, rounded sides make this “ideal for preparing one-pan meals during a busy week,” the manufacturers (that would be All-Clad) tell us. Now that’s a pan with my name on it!
As a busy person who lives for the one-dish meal, I was delighted to take the Weeknight Pan ($179, crateandbarrel.com) for a test drive. On the menu: fresh tomato soup topped with homemade croutons, adapted from a recent recipe in The New York Times.
Step one: The croutons — ciabatta cut into cubes and browned in olive oil. (Remove from pan, place in a bowl and sprinkle with sea salt.) Tip: If you’re new to cooking with stainless steel, note that you’ll get the best results using low to medium heat.
Step two, in the same pan: Very lightly sautéed baby bok choy and heirloom tomatoes finished in a sweet-vermouth-based reduction. It takes all of 15 minutes from prep to serving.
Step three: To serve, place soup in bowls, top with the croutons and enjoy.
In a word (or two): Nom-nom.
I felt oh so professional and "Top Chef" cooking with the Weeknight Pan. It heated quickly and evenly, and no matter how furiously I stirred, the pan stayed totally, rock-solidly put on the stove burner — plus, the handle stayed cool. One caveat: At 12.75 inches across the top (23 inches including the handle), this is a lot of pan to store, which could be a minor problem for the storage-challenged.
My recommendation: Keep this baby near (or even on) your stovetop — it really does live up to its name, so make sure it’s close at hand.
—Mary Clarke
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