I am a creature of habit in the kitchen — as well as a bit of a cookware snob. When I cook (which is almost every night), it's only with enameled cast iron or plain cast iron pans, the same kind my parents always used. It actually never occured to me to try stainless steel for anything other than heating up water for coffee or tea. That is, until I had the chance to test-drive a sauté pan from Cristel, the esteemed French cookware company.
Cristel's innovative design was the initial draw, and with good reason: The handles on the Strate Removable line are detachable and interchangeable. Remove the long handle and attach two smaller grips and voilà: table-worthy serve ware right from the stove. You also get more room in the sink come cleanup time, along with easier storage capabilities, a particular advantage to the cabinet-challenged.
Other specs to note: Three layers make up the pan — an aluminum base (a great heat conductor, but reactive with acidic foods) fully clad in two layers of nonreactive stainless steel, suitable for all heat sources from gas to electric, ceramic, induction and oven; dishwasher safe.
For me, the big revelation is what a pleasure it is to cook with this pan. Broccoli rabe — mounds of it — cooked down with ease and zero splatter, thanks to the pan's high, straight sides. So far, I've been taming heaps of garlic-spiked greens with great success, and plan to move on to chicken breasts and/or meatballs if I get really motivated. Cleanup is a total breeze — and while sturdy, the pan is much easier to maneauver than my heavier iron pieces.
Bottom line: I'm a convert.
—Mary Clarke
Photos courtesy of Cristel
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