Colored Gem Guide

Perhaps by now you've noticed the color-is-hot trend in all things bridal. From dresses to bouquets, we're seeing everything from subtle touches to bold splashes, and big-day jewelry is no exception. While some brides don sapphire and diamond earrings as an elegant "something blue," others wear an engagement ring that boasts a classic diamond nestled between two pink tourmalines. Colored gemstones, the most intensely hued natural materials on earth, add an unexpected and eye-catching element to your look. As a bonus, they are generally more affordable than diamonds.

Be True to Your Hue

Color Code Sure, they’re gorgeous. But gemstones are more than just nuggets of eye candy. Most have an intriguing history that spans centuries and encompasses royalty, mythology and wives’-taleish wisdom. It is believed that Roman centurions wore rubies into battle to promote quick healing in case of injury. Sapphires are known as the celestial stone: The ancient Persians believed that this stone’s reflection made the heavens blue. Sparkling green emeralds were the jewels most prized by Cleopatra. In the Bible, Noah uses a garnet lantern to navigate the arkat night. In Tibet, amethyst is considered to be sacred to Buddha. If you’ve got a gem in mind, do some research on it just for kicks, so you’ll know the scoop behind your prize.

While regal rubies, emeralds and sapphires are still the top three colored-stone sellers, gems that have long been considered unusual - golden citrines, light-blue aquamarines, lime peridots and orange topazes - are getting a turn in the jewelry spotlight. And for good reason: Different people are naturally drawn to different colors. Birthstones offer a starting point, but there's a whole rainbow of stones out there. Choose a hue that complements your skin tone, as well as your personality and wardrobe.

Sapphires: The "It" Gem

The hardest and most durable colored gemstone next to a diamond, the blue sapphire is a symbol of sincerity and faithfulness, and comes in second after the diamond as the colored gemstone of choice in modern engagement rings, according to the Jewelry Information Center (J.I.C.), a nonprofit trade association based in New York City. "Princess Diana wore a sapphire surrounded by diamonds," says J.I.C. executive director Elizabeth Florence. "Besides being truly beautiful colored gems, sapphires will wear well over the years, which makes them a wonderful choice for a ring you'll wear for the rest of your life."

Blue sapphires come in a wide range of shades, varying from very light blue to a deep, almost black color. How to explain this gem's engagement-ring popularity? "Women are marrying later these days, and perhaps those extra few years of ‘singledom' serve to solidify a woman's personal style," Florence theorizes. "In choosing the piece of jewelry she will wear for the rest of her life, she's not just looking at rings she thinks she should have, but is really taking the time to explore her options until she finds a unique piece that makes her heart sing."

Enhancing the Stone

Just as no two diamonds are alike, colored gemstones also vary in quality, appearance and price. "The difference in quality between stones is immediately apparent - even to the untrained eye," says Douglas Hucker, executive director of the American Gem Trade Association. "It's fairly easy to detect the difference between a fine quality ruby and one of lesser quality - much more so than with a diamond."

Look for a sparkling stone with adequate depth and rich, vibrant color that retains its intensity in a variety of lighting situations. Some colored gemstones come by their deep color naturally, but the majority have been quality enhanced. "Heat treating is an accepted industry practice that can enhance the beauty of a gemstone," says Florence. "Buyers should ask at the time of purchase if their colored gemstone has been treated in any way that will affect its care or cleaning." Choose a well-respected professional jeweler; check the J.I.C.'s website (www.jewelryinfo.org) for one near you.